Malbec

TL; DR

Originally from south-western France, this bold red is now best known in Argentina!

So, what is Malbec all about?--red

Malbec is a dark, powerful variety that responds well to oak ageing and maintains acidity at higher ripeness levels. Black and purple fruit plus moderate tannins are its calling card, with an undercurrent of plush ripe fruit flavours and smokiness that makes it a casual BBQ favourite!

Where did Malbec originate?--aromatic

Despite the global popularity of Malbec from Argentina, the grape variety originated in the southwest of France, from the region of Cahors near Toulouse. Malbec from Cahors (actually called Auxerrois there, and Cot in Bordeaux) was said to be drunk by the ancient Romans around two thousand years ago, and by the time of the Middle Ages, its reputation was so great that it was exported all around the world. Then, due to a number of catastrophes including wars, frosts and pests, Cahors Malbec went downhill and was relegated to a neglected area of the world’s wine stage.

Where's the best Malbec from?--racy

In the last fifty years, since achieving its official AOC designation, (the regional wine law that also states that Cahors wine must contain at least 70% Malbec along with Tannat and/ or Merlot ) Cahors’ wine producers have focussed on improving the quality of their wine, and now produce from the limestone soils of the region super-dark and tannic reds, with blackberry and blackcurrant fruit in youth, and tobacco, coffee, and meaty notes as it ages.

Malbec, although a very small percentage, is also one of the permitted red varieties of Bordeaux, along with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot (and an even tinier amount of Carménère). But, as Malbec is infamous for issues in the vineyard, such as poor fruit set early in the ripening stage, it is increasingly becoming less common there.

Nowadays, it’s the Argentinian Malbecs - specifically from the sandy soils of Mendoza, with its high altitude, and sunny days but cool nights - that are the shining examples of the variety, with deeply coloured, spicily rich reds with an exuberant juiciness and trademark velvety texture. Some Malbecs are made for long ageing but generally, the wines have softer tannins than their Cahors siblings, and are very approachable when young. With high levels of alcohol and intense fruit, Argentinian Malbec is easy to like!

What does Malbec taste like?--aromatic

Whether from Argentina or France, the mixture of black and blue fruit is common, as is chocolate, and a telltale lifted floral note of violet or lavender. Some examples see more vigorous oak, which leads to aromas of mocha, vanilla and clove. These wines will have softer tannins and a rounder mouthfeel. Other examples may have a touch of green herbs and more prominent tannins. These tend also to have more soil expression in the finished wine - gravel, crushed rocks or earth are common descriptors.

What are the main styles of Malbec?--cellar

Malbec from Cahors and Bordeaux is known for its incredibly deep ‘black’ colour and intense black and blue fruit characters, and its savouriness over fruitiness: stony and gravelly notes abound from the limestone soils where it grows. There’s often a touch of herbaceousness, and always a lot of tannin!

Argentinian Malbec was initially known for its ‘Tuesday night takeaway pizza’ introductory styles, but we’re also starting to see more of the ‘put this away for your newborn baby’s 21st birthday’ kind of bottles, with prices to match! But they’ve managed to make such an impact due the variety’s intense purple colour, lots of rich, ripe black fruit, obvious vanillin oak flavours (especially in those longer-lived bottles), and savoury notes of cocoa, coffee and tobacco. And of course, those high alcohol levels.

What foods pair with Malbec?--plum

Malbec is a meat-lovers’ dream wine: think of tucking a napkin into your shirt and digging into a platter of Tira de Asado barbecue ribs, or hunkering down on a chunky flame-grilled chorizo bread roll... Or chow down on a classic empanada, filled with a spicy beef and veggie mix. All those smoky, charry and meaty BBQ flavours match gloriously with Argentina’s Malbecs, rich and full-bodied wines that they are, with the structure to match these texture-rich foods.

In Cahors they do it in a more Frenchy-classic style, with pork fillets and prunes in red wine a classic dish, or thick slices of foie gras pâté with crunchy baguette. Roasted and stuffed capsicums and field mushrooms and BBQ’d eggplant with a goodly amount of char work as excellent vegetarian options too!

Recipes to pair with Malbec--red

Smoky Sausage Stew - 1 hour, 4 servings
Best Ever Baba Ganoush - 30 minutes, 4 servings
Grilled Lamb Chops with Inzimino Stew - 30 minutes, 4 servings
Five Bean Chilli - 30 minutes, 4 servings

Fun fact--earth

Argentina is home to some of the highest vineyards in the world - up to 10000 feet above sea level in some places! This produces wines of amazing freshness but also quite intense colours. It's common to see intensely purple Malbec from these vineyards. The reason for this? It's estimated that for every 1,000 feet gain in elevation, the level of UV rays increase by approximately 10%, which forces the fruit to develop a thicker skin, leading to greater colour concentration!

If you like this, you should also give these grapes a guzzle...--wines

Cabernet Sauvignon, Nero d'Avola

About the Author

Melissa Moore is a perpetual student of wine (currently WSET Diploma) and competition-winning sommelier. She has a sharp palate for both wine (duh) and sandwiches, enhanced only when blaring loud dance music.