Lagrein
TL; DR
A berry-laden and sometimes gruff Italian alpine grape with a firm handshake and a spicy personality streak.
So, what is Lagrein all about?--red
Lagrein is one of the most famous red grapes of the Italian Alps, where it grows on the steep valley sides in the regions of Alto Adige and Trentino. Famous for its high tannins and high acidity usually with plenty of dark chocolate and cooking spices. You’ll find Lagrein made into a few different styles, from delicious full-flavoured Rosato to light/fruity (but spicy) reds and seriously robust hearty red wines with firm flavours. Since this part of the world is also German-speaking, the dark-coloured, full-bodied Lagrein styles are known as Lagrein Dunkel (literally ‘dark Lagrein’).
Where did Lagrein come from?--earth
Likely the hills around Bolzano in far northern Italy. The current thinking is that Lagrein is a cross of the Teroldego grape and another mystery red.
Who's famous for Lagrein?--racy
The Italians are all over it. In the Sudtirol/Alto Adige region on the Italian/German border, Lagrein is king of red grapes (although not the most widely planted - that would be the Schiava grape, which makes an inoffensive light red). You can follow the Lagrein trail all the way to Lake Garda, too (and who wouldn’t want to drink through such beautiful countryside?). There’s a smattering of lovely Lagrein in California & Oregon, but also a smidgen now made in Australia, particularly in the Macedon Ranges and McLaren Vale, although the wines are more spicy and medium-bodied than their dark, full-flavoured Italian cousins.
What does Lagrein taste like?--aromatic
Berries. Lots of berries. Dark berries, like blood plums, blackberries and purple cherries, are the Lagrein signature. All those berries sometimes make Lagrein wines fruity and purple, but also with a fair bit of tannins in the biggest, baddest Dunkel wines.
How is Lagrein made?--cellar
The challenge with Lagrein is that it can go dark on you, so winemakers need to keep a steady eye on the wine in the press, or you could end up with a hard beast of a wine. Some winemakers use new oak barrels to help add a little softness, and the best Lagrein really needs a few years napping in bottle to look its best.
What are the different Lagrein styles?--lemon
You really can split into three - Rosato or Kretzer wines (depending on if you’re leaning more toward Italian or German) are the traditional Italian rosé styles (and often they’re dry wines with a bit more red colour). Then, you’ll find some Lagrein that feels almost Pinot-like, which is not surprising that Lagrein is also a grandchild of Pinot Noir. Then comes the Lagrein Dunkel or Scuro wines, which feel more like full-bodied, tannic, high-acid Shiraz (which is also not surprising given the Lagrein is a cousin of Syrah/Shiraz).
What foods pair with Lagrein?--plum
So much of the pairing here depends on style, but you can’t go wrong with a few Italian alpine recipes for starters. Venison with local berries (called ‘Hirschfleisch’ if you cross over into the German parts) is typically served with a rich gravy. The local northern Italian ‘Südtiroler gulasch’ is an absolute pair here too, especially with red cabbage and Knödel (dumplings). Hearty mushroom dishes are a great match here too, as are any hearty stews (with or without meat). The high acid zing of Lagrein makes it a really great pair with salty, rich foods, especially crumbly cheese (with or without local salami).
Recipes to pair with Lagrein--pizza
Fun fact about Lagrein--eggplant
Lagrein has one of the highest anthocyanin contents of the better-known red grapes. Anthocyanins are a phenolic compound found in grape skins that affect the colour of a grape, so higher anthocyanin equals more intense colours. This is part of the reason why Lagrein wines can seem so very purple!
If you like this, you should also give these grapes a guzzle...--wines
About the Author:
Andrew Graham is a master winemaker and viticulturist (aka a grape guy) who fell into the wine industry as a teenager and never looked back! Voted the 23rd most trusted wine critic on the planet, Andrew judges at wine shows across the globe and runs foolishly long ultramarathons in his spare time (swiftly followed by a recuperative glass of wine or a frosty beer).